Sweta
Machhendranalh Snan, January. Sweta (white) Machhendranath enjoys a week-long
festival in he is bathed, oiled, perfumed, and painted. The Goddess Kumari visits him at
his elaborate temple near Asan Tol. If he is pleased by the music, offerings, and
attentions of his devotees, the people of the Valley can look forward to satisfactory
rainfall in the planting season.
Swasthani, January - February. Goddess
Swasthani's three eyes burn like the sun. She is the ultimate gift grantor; if insulted,
she can make life miserable. By worshipping Swasthani, Parbati attained Lord Shiva as her
husband. In the worship rites of Goddess Swasthani, outlined by Parbati, the Swasthani
scripture is read every evening for a month. Worshipping Swasthani will bring together
parted relations, remove curses, and result in limitless gifts.
Maghe Sankranti, January. In the holy
month of Magh the sun enters the southern hemisphere, and the days begin to grow longer
and warmer. Lord Vishnu the Preserver is thanked for his efforts. On Maghe Sankranti (the
first day of Magh) people take an early morning bath in a holy river, visit the shrines of
Vishnu, and present flowers, incense and food to him. They read the Bhagwad Gita, also
known as The Song of the Gods, rub mustard oil over their bodies, and enjoy feasts of rice
cooked with lentils, yams or taruls - a must - and laddu, sweets made of sesame and a
sugarcane paste.
Basanta Panchami and Saraswati
Puja, January. Basanta, or spring, ushers in the loveliest time of the year.
Crowds gather at Kathmandu's Durbar Square while His Majesty the King and other
dignitaries welcome the season as a band plays the traditional song of spring. A different
celebration occurs at Swayambhu and at the Nil Barahi shrine near Lazimpat. Saraswati, the
goddess of learning, arts and crafts is worshiped at her temples. Artists, musicians,
teachers, and students bring flowers, unbroken rice, and other gifts to please her.
Maha Shivaratri, February. Lord Shiva is
one of Nepal's most popular gods. During Maha Shivaratri, his "Great Night",
followers throughout the Indian sub-continent crowd the Pashupati temple to worship him.
On this occasion "there is no space even for a sesame seed". Colorful sadhus,
the wandering sages who emulate Shiva, rub ashes over their bodies, give lectures to
disciples, meditate, or practice yoga. Devotees pray to Shiva's image inside the temple at
midnight and may queue for up to six hours to look at the image. Bonfires are lit,
neighbors and friends share food, and devotees enjoy two days and a night of music, song,
and dance throughout the Pashupati complex and in the streets.
Losar, February. Sherpas and Tibetans welcome
their New Year with feasts, family visits and dancing. Families don their finest clothes
and jewelry and exchange gifts. Buddhist monks offer prayers for good health and
prosperity, and perform dances at the monasteries. Colorful prayer flags decorate streets
and rooftops; the colors seem especially brilliant at the Bouddha and Swayambhu stupas.
Crowds of celebrants at Bouddha bring in the New Year by throwing tsampa (roasted barley
flour) into the air.
Holi or Fagu Purnima, March. Fagu
Purnima is one of the most colorful and playful festivals of Nepal. The chir pole,
decorated with colorful flags and erected on the first day of Fagu at Kathmandu's Durbar
Square, is a formal announcement to all: hide your good clothes, for throughout the week
you may be splashed with colored powder and water balloons. The last day is the wildest:
youths covered with red vermillion powder roam the streets as inviting targets.
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Chaitra Dasain, March - April. Red
vermillion powder, family blessings, and goat and duck sacrifices are essential to praise
the victory of Ram, hero of the epic Ramayana, over the evil king Rawan. Mother Goddess
Durga, the source of all power, must be supplicated too, for her powers helped Ram achieve
his victory.
Ghode Jatra, April. Visitors are often
amazed by the fine horses of the Nepalese army, and Ghode Jatra is a time for the most
graceful of these animals to perform before the public eye. Legends relate that this
''horse festival" was begun after the Kathmandu people buried a demon under the soil
of Tundikhel showgrounds. They say that he may rise again and cause worry to the world if
he is not trampled on by horses each year. So every spring, this victory over evil is
celebrated in the Valley by organizing palanquin processions and a grand display of
showjumping, motorcycling feats, and gymnastics. Their Majesties the King and Queen, the
Living Goddess Kumari, and thousands of people from all over the country are a part of the
jatra audience.
Biska Jalra (Bisket Jatra), April. During this important
festival, the old kingdom of Bhaktapur and its neighboring areas replay a drama passed on
over the centuries. Images of wrathful and somewhat demonic deities are placed on
tottering chariots. They are offered blood sacrifices, flowers, and coins. Men brimming
with youthful vigor and rice beer drag the chariots across brick-paved streets of the
town, and wherever these raths stop, lamps are lit and devotees overflow into the
surrounding alleys. Other gods and goddesses, too, are put on palanquins and carried
around so that they may see the sights. At Bode village, there is a tongue-boring ceremony
in which the dedicated may reserve a place in heaven.
Red Machhendranath Jatra, May.
Until a few decades ago, before the Kathmandu Valley became a purely commercial hub, it
was an agricultural land, which depended upon the rainy monsoon for its important rice
crop. Today, though traditional farming practices have reduced, the pre-monsoon season
still sees great worship made to Red Machhendranath - a rain god. Patan's streets and
palace complex are made even more evocative by wavering lamp and candle lights, women
busily cooking feasts, and men gathering strength to pull the chariot of their red deity.
As Lord Machhendranath views his followers from the high seat of his chariot, its four
wheels - representing the powerful Bhairab - receive rice and vermilion powder, the king
of serpents is asked for blessings, and his jeweled vest is shown to the public.
Buddha Jayanti:, May. The ever-benevolent
Buddha was born in Nepal, and the religion he preached is the second most popular in the
kingdom. On May 6, a full moon day, the Lord's birth, enlightenment, and salvation are
applauded throughout the valley with celebrations. Swayambhu and Baudhanath Stupas are
prepared for the oncoming festivities several days in advance. Monasteries are cleaned,
statues are polished, bright prayer flags waft in the breeze, and monks prepare to dance.
On the Jayanti day, people reach the stupas before dawn, go around them and give offerings
to the many Buddha images there.
Gunla, July-August. The monsoon has arrived, and
the fields have been planted. It is time for Kathmandu Valley Buddhists to observe Gunla.
The month-long festivities celebrate a ''rains retreat'' initiated twenty-five centuries
ago by the Buddha. It is a time for prayer, fasting, meditation and religious music.
Worshippers climb past jungles, stone animals, great statues of the Buddha, and begging
monkeys to Swayambhu's hilltop where daily prayers begin before dawn. Oil lamps, prayer
flags, religious statues, and scroll paintings adorn the monasteries as temple bells chime
and powerful scents fill the air. Important Buddhist statues and monasteries are on
display at the monasteries, and the teachings of Lord Buddha are remembered as the rains
nurture the rice, Nepals most important crop.
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Janai Purnima and Raksha Bandhan,
August. On Janai Purnima, a full moon day, high-caste Hindus chant the powerful Gayatri
mantra and change their Sacred Thread ('anai), while a raksya bandhan, a red or yellow
protection cord, is tied around the wrists of other Hindus and Buddhists. Pilgrims journey
to the mountains north of Kathmandu. Here they emulate Lord Shiva by bathing in the sacred
lake of Gosaikund. Those unable to make the trek celebrate at Shiva's Kumbheswar Mahadev
temple. Here, a pool with an image of Shiva at its center is filled with water believed to
have come from Gosaikund.
Gai Jatra, August. The gai, or cow, is holy to
Hindus. She represents Laxmi, the goddess of wealth, and guides the souls of the departed
to the gates of the Netherworld. But Gai Jatra is not a somber occasion. Satire, jokes,
fancy costumes, and colorful processions are the order of the day as people recall how an
eighteenth-century king rallied his people to cheer his queen upon the death of their son.
Those who have experienced the death of close ones during the past year share their sorrow
and take comfort in the fact that the gai has safely transported the departed souls on
their afterlife journey.
Young men wearing womens saris, children dressed up as cows, and whimsical
characters of all sorts fill the streets. Special issues of local magazines poke fun at
everyone and everything - even the most important people aren't spared.
Teej, September. Pashupati, the temple of Shiva, is
drenched in crimson during Teej as women in their fine red wedding saris crowd the temple
grounds. This unique women's festival is marked by fasting, folk songs, and dancing as the
women recall Parbati's devotion to her husband Shiva. Married women visit their fathers'
homes. All daughters and sisters receive gifts from their male kin, and an elaborate feast
is prepared for them. It's a loud and cheerful celebration until late at night, when
strict fasting begins Unmarried women who fast on this day will have good luck in finding
suitable husbands. Married women who fast will find their husbands faithful and will see
the bond of love grow. The blessings of Shiva and Parbati ensure that family life will be
joyous for all.
Indra Jatra, September. Indra, King of
Heaven and controller of the rains, has once again blessed the Valley. As the end of the
monsoon nears, farmers look forward to a rich harvest: everyone is grateful to the deva
for his help. For eight days, Kathmandu's Durbar Square is the focus of a great
celebration fit to "flatter the King of Heaven." Indra's dhwaj, or flag, is
erected on the first day. It is said that many centuries ago, Indra's mother needed
specially-scented flowers but could not find them in heaven's gardens. Indra discovered
parijat flowers in the Kathmandu Valley and tried to steal them for his mother. He was
caught and imprisoned by the Valley people. When Indra's mother came searching for him the
people were appalled by what they had done. They released Indra and dedicated one of the
most colorful festivals of Nepal to him to appease his anger. Masks and statues
representing Vishnu, Bhairab, and Shiva are shown to the public, and the Goddess Kumari
witnesses the special occasion from her chariot. Indra is thanked for the rains and
assured once again that he is respected in the Kathmandu Valley.
Dasain, October. Dasain is the longest and most
favorite festival of Nepal. Everyone stays home with their families, offices close and
Radio Nepal plays Dasain music. The skies of Kathmandu are filled with kites and the
marketplaces are filled with farmers bringing their buffaloes, goats and chickens to sell.
The animals are to be sacrificed on the night of Kal Rain to the goddess Durga to
celebrate her victory over evil. On the day of Dashami, everyone puts on new clothes and
goes to honor their family elders, where they receive large red tikas of vermilion paste
on their foreheads. In the following days of Dasain, families and friends unite, feasts
are consumed, blessings are imparted and gifts are exchanged. Nepal's most beloved
festival ends with the full moon.
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Mani Rimdu is a Sherpa festival celebrated
during the fall at Tengboche Monstery in the Everest region. For five days, Lamas and
Sherpas gather for "the good of the world." There are plays, masked dances,
prayers, and feastings. Demons are quelled and the pious rewarded. The days are colorful
and trips to the Everest region are very rewarding indeed if they can be organized during
the days of the festival.
Tihar, November. Tihar, known as the Festival of
Lights, is a time of candlelight, tinsel decorations and festive colored sweets. On
different days, there are offerings and small celebrations for crows, dogs, cows and oxen.
On the night of Lakshmi Puja, garlands are hung and lamps are lighted to invite Lakshmi,
the goddess of wealth, into the home. Mha Puja, the New Year's Day according to the Nepal
Era, is the day of the self, when people give themselves blessings to remain healthy and
happy for the rest of the year. Bhai Tika, the last day of Tihar, is the day when sisters
make offerings to their brothers. The rituals of breaking a walnut, putting on garlands of
makhamali flowers and encircling brothers in rings of mustard oil protects them from Yama,
lord of the Netherworld.
Baia Chaturdarsi, December. This
simple, festive day takes place in the ancient forest surrounding the temple of
Pashupatinath. It is one of the oldest traditions of the Valley. Families who have lost a
loved one in the last year keep an all-night vigil in the forest, lighting oil lamps and
singing songs. Following a ritual morning bath, people walk through the forest, scattering
seven of grain along the paths and over the linga of Lord Shiva to give merit to their
late kinsmen and to cleanse the sins of a mythological man called Bala who had been
transformed into a demon.
Bibah Panchami, December. All the people
of the Hindu world know the story of the marriage of the hero Ram and the princess Sita,
as told in the epic Ramayana. King Janak, Sita's father, proposed a test of strength for
the suitors of his daughter: to string the great bow of Lord Shiva. Warriors, kings and
chieftains came from afar, but no man could even lift the bow. Ram lifted the bow with
ease and when he tried to string it, the bow shattered into pieces. Ram and Sita were
married in Janakpur, now in southern Nepal, and their marriage is celebrated to this day.
Each year, idols of Ram and Sita are brought out in procession and their Hindu wedding
ceremony Is re-enacted during a week-long religious fair. Bibah Panchami reflects the
devotion of Hindus to Ram, perhaps the most popular among the incarnations of Vishnu, and
to Sita, the model of the ideal Hindu woman.
Yomari Punhi, December. As the new rice is
brought in, the farmers of the Valley prepare for Yomari Punhi, an offering to the gods in
thanks for the abundant harvest. The yomari is a special cake made from the flour of new
rice. A shell of dough is filled with melted raw sugar and sealed. After the cake is
steamed, it is presented to the gods as offering. Later it is eaten as blessed food. Thus
each year, when the storerooms are full and the farmer's toil has been rewarded, the gods
are thanked for their benevolence and generosity.